Sustainable Seafood Abroad: Canada

Posted on | November 7, 2010 | 2 Comments

A growing number of Canadian companies and non-governmental organizations (NGOs) are all aboot sustainable seafood. Unfortunately, the Canadian government has not been keeping up, as they voted against international measures needed to protect bluefin tuna. However, SOP found plenty of positive storylines to illustrate Canada’s contributions to the movement.

In a classic case of one-upsmanship, Canadian grocery store chains have been outdoing each other over the past couple years. Loblaw, the country’s largest retailer, committed to source only sustainable seafood for all its canned, frozen, fresh, wild and farmed seafood products by 2013. Two days after Loblaw announced big progress toward that goal, competitor Metro stole the spotlight by setting a deadline of mid-2011 to implement the same policy. Metro has partnered with activist-NGO Greenpeace to help make the transition. It will be interesting to see how this relationship plays out. This is Greenpeace’s first corporate partnership for sustainable seafood and its definition of sustainability could significantly limit Metro’s offerings.

And finally, just last month, another retail giant Sobeys swooped in with the most progressive sustainability policy of all the Canadian grocers. Partnering with Sustainable Fisheries Partnership, Sobeys, instead of dropping all seafood products with sustainability issues, will use its buying power to leverage change down the supply chain to the fishery level. Sobeys will continue to buy a red or yellow-rated product if there is a clear plan in place with measurable goals to improve the fishery where the product is coming from.

Canada’s largest sushi company, Bento Nouveau, has committed to buying 100% of its fish from sustainable sources by 2012. This is no small challenge for a company that sells more than 10 million servings at grab-and-go sushi bars in over 2,000 locations. For assistance, Bento Nouveau enlisted SeaChoice, a coalition of Canadian NGOs. SeaChoice contributes its expertise in sustainable seafood and raising public awareness, and will add its label to seafood products it deems as sustainable.

Academics also factor into Canada’s sustainable seafood profile. SOP already reported on the fantastic solutions-oriented work of Dr. Thierry Chopin at the University of New Brunswick. He is undertaking practical research that will help fish farming companies implement polyculture practices. On the other coast, Dr. Daniel Pauly and his crew at the University of British Columbia catch headlines by reporting the doom and gloom status of our world’s fisheries and seafood supply. While Dr. Pauly is one of the world’s best known marine biologists, he is not known for providing practical assistance to solve the problems he often highlights. SOP hopes he and his team will soon step out of their academia bubble and apply their vast expertise to partnerships with businesses, fishermen, and governments.

In a country where catching, selling, and eating fish is important to the economy, it is nice to see sustainability being talked about and acted upon. SOP will be keeping an eye on Canada’s progress and will report back.

Book Review: Four Fish

Posted on | October 17, 2010 | 2 Comments

Paul Greenberg gives us a fresh overview of the world’s fisheries and demand for seafood in Four Fish: The Future of the Last Wild Food. He balances his recreational fishing and conservation background with the commercial realities that surfaced during his research for the book. SOP points out few highlights of the book.

As the title implies, Paul employs stories and facts about four types of fish (salmon, sea bass, cod, and tuna) to explore the future health of our oceans and our appetite for seafood. In each chapter, he diverts from straight fish talk to meander through side stories that create intriguing historical and social context. The book is chock full of memorable facts that inspire, not overwhelm.

Throughout the book, Paul makes a number of compelling arguments. He explains why bluefin tuna should be given respite from harvest and afforded protections similar to those for other megafauna (e.g., whales, elephants). Four Fish also makes the case for what species and types of farms are best suited for large scale aquaculture. In addition, Paul argues why we should revert back to the 2,000 year old Chinese practice of polyculture.

In the end, Four Fish serves as a benchmark. Paul Greenberg captures the current status of global fisheries and explains how we got here. Our actions and results moving forward can be measured against the contents of Four Fish. SOP encourages you to read the book and think about whether or not Paul’s goals for the future of wild and farmed seafood can be achieved.

Is Genetically-Modified Salmon Sustainable?

Posted on | September 27, 2010 | No Comments

Critics of genetically-modified (GM) foods are pulling out all their tricks to thwart a biotechnology company’s attempt to begin marketing GM salmon. The CEO of the company, Aqua Bounty Technologies, fires back that their salmon is “sustainable”. SOP weighs in on this touchy topic to tease out what is really at issue here.

Before addressing the sustainability question, we first offer a bit of context. Unless you grow and gather all your own food, you have eaten GM foods. Approximately, 90% of soybeans and corn grown in this country come from transgenic plants. This technique is used mainly to increase the plants’ pest and disease resistance. However, to date no GM animal products are on the market.

In addition to raising ecological issues, most critics object to GM foods because of human health concerns. This month the FDA held a hearing to debate whether or not to allow marketing of the GM salmon for retail. Most observers see this move as a sign that approval is inevitable. One would hope that the FDA will make a final decision that ensures our safety. The biggest remaining question is ’should GM farmed salmon products have to be labeled as such?’

Aqua Bounty’s GM salmon contain a gene from another fish called ocean pout and a growth hormone from Chinook salmon. The Waltham, Massachusetts – based company claims this new fish can grow to market size of 8 pounds in 18 months as compared to 36 of non-modified salmon. Clearly, from a business point of view this product is very attractive.

But, the critics including Alaska Senator Mark Begich attempt to deface the GM salmon by calling it ‘Frankenfish.’ While name-calling grabs headlines and wins middle school turf battles, it does not constructively add to any debate. Understandably, Senator Begich is simply trying to protect the market share of the sustainable wild salmon fishery in his state. However, he fails to acknowledge that salmon can be farm-raised in a sustainable way.

While all the standard sustainability concerns about farm raising fish exist in this case, it remains to be seen whether operations raising GM salmon are sustainable or not. The fact that the a salmon has been genetically modified actually has no bearing on whether it is sustainable or not. It all comes down to the quality of the farm and farming location. SOP believes we have not heard the end of this debate.

Whole Foods Adds Seafood Rankings

Posted on | September 19, 2010 | 1 Comment

Whole Foods is consistently ranked among the top North American retailers for seafood sustainability. As one of the leaders of the movement, the grocery store chain continues to adapt its seafood policies. SOP points out the changes you will now see at its seafood counters.

Whole Foods announced this past week that it is making it easier for consumers to account for sustainability in their seafood purchasing decisions. The company worked with Monterey Bay Aquarium and Blue Ocean Institute to color code their seafood offerings based on sustainability. Both non-governmental organizations (NGOs) maintain their own science-based seafood sustainability rankings.

Labels on wild-caught seafood products indicate whether they are green, yellow, or red rated. Green species are the most sustainable. Yellow means the NGOs’ research shows some concerns about the fisheries’ sustainability. And red tells us that the product comes from unsustainable sources. This past week Whole Foods also made the commitment to stop selling all red-rated species by Earth Day 2013. The new color scheme complements the blue Marine Stewardship Council labels that the grocery store uses to indicate which seafood products are certified as sustainable.

SOP encourages you to stop by your local Whole Foods, check out the new labels, and buy green or blue seafood. We know Whole Foods can be expensive (Whole Paycheck) but remember a 1/3 pound of seafood is plenty for one portion. One serving of $15/pound seafood costs only $5 per person for a healthy and delicious protein.

Seafood at the New England Aquarium?

Posted on | September 12, 2010 | No Comments

Move over Monterey Bay! You’re not the only aquarium serving up a platter of sustainable seafood. In fact, the New England has been quietly building its program to advance the movement for over 10 years. SOP highlights some of its initiatives and partnerships that appear to be growing.

It may seem out of place for an aquarium to serve cooked fish (but hey, zoos serve burgers, right?). But that’s exactly what the New England Aquarium has been doing through its Celebrate Seafood Dinner Series. About six times a year, the Aquarium brings in forward-thinking local chefs for three and a half hours of cooking demonstrations, sustainable seafood, and wine (four courses + wine for $75…not bad).

NEAq also partners with big-name retailers, suppliers, and restaurant chains to help the build sustainability into their procurement systems. Aquarium staff bring to corporations like Darden their science and analytical backgrounds to assess the company’s seafood supply chains. They also have been working with the iconic New England-based Gorton’s. And most recently, the Aquarium teamed up with a Seattle-based seafood importer/distributor named Sea Port Products to work toward sustainability for the more than 40 fish species it ships in from 12 countries….no easy task.

And for SOP readers who are hungry for more, the NEAq gives us guidance on how to be an ‘ocean-friendly seafood shopper‘ and shares a ton of different recipes.

Sustainable Seafood and Traceability

Posted on | August 28, 2010 | No Comments

Traceability may not sound like the most interesting topic. But in truth, it is an exciting emerging component of sustainable seafood. SOP defines traceability and explores its benefits and uses.

Traceability is a process and system to track seafood (or any other product) through the supply chain. Think of it as if every fish or box of fish has its own bar code that can be scanned to access tracking data. In an ideal setting, one could use the system to follow a fish’s journey from the waters where it was caught to the retailer or restaurant where it is being sold. Knowing this information can help increase food safety, decrease illegal fishing, and promote sustainability.

There are several benefits to using a functional traceability system throughout the supply chain. Seafood suppliers are actually seeing their profits go up. While there are initial costs (e.g., new technologies/programs, staff training), the payoff comes in the form of higher customer retention and quicker turnover of fresh seafood. People increasingly like to know where their seafood is coming from, especially if it is local. The bottom line is this openness and transparency translates into more sales.

Traceability is a key component of business for seafood retailers and certifiers. Online sustainable seafood retailer, i love blue sea, highlights its importance on its website. Also, the Marine Stewardship Council (MSC) certification organization makes traceability a cornerstone of its program. In an industry wrought with fraud and species substitution, MSC’s reputation rides on the confidence of knowing the fish you buy comes from the fishery it certified as sustainable. A recent independent investigation using 240 DNA samples from MSC-certified fish in the US, UK, Germany, and Japan showed no mislabeling of fish.

With technology that exists today, the future of traceability is wide open. For example, companies can build programs where one can break out his or her smart phone, scan a fish or seafood product at the grocery store, and find out the fisherman who caught it and from where. SOP will continue to report on traceability as new applications and benefits materialize.

Costco on the Path to Sustainability?

Posted on | August 22, 2010 | 2 Comments

Does anyone else find it odd to hear the words Costco (the largest warehouse club chain in the US) and sustainability in the same sentence? SOP is not yet convinced that the two are synonymous with each other. But Costco recently took action that was a small step in advancing the sustainable seafood movement.

This past week, Costco announced its sustainable seafood policy. It will no longer sell seven wild species of fish that are for the most part in bad shape. Included in the list are bluefin tuna, orange roughy, Chilean sea bass, and shark. However, the company admits these species make up only a small part of its sales. Most of the fish they move are farmed.

In its new policy, Costco explains the work it has started toward sustainable farm-raised seafood. The company has taken little action up to this point but lays out a few goals moving forward. It will collaborate with its suppliers and the World Wildlife Fund (WWF) to make sure its tilapia, shrimp, and salmon are raised under internationally-accepted standards.

Greenpeace gave Costco a failing grade and a ranking of 14 out of 20 retailers in its 2010 Carting Away the Oceans report. Actually, Costco flat-out refused to respond to the activist environmental group’s inquiries. Not one to be taken lightly, Greenpeace fired back this past June by flying a blimp over a Costco in Washington with a strong message.

SOP empathizes with Greenpeace. Huge companies like Costco continue to exploit and profit from our Earth’s resources. However, we also cannot expect the business world to adopt drastic changes at the drop of a hat. The goal should be to strive for continued improvement and progress toward sustainable seafood. Costco has now publicly embarked on that journey.

Veta la Palma Takes Polyculture to a New Level

Posted on | August 15, 2010 | No Comments

The Spanish farming estate, Veta la Palma, has created a polyculture system of epic proportions. Not only does the company use the environment sustainably, it actually improves it. Following up on our introduction to polyculture, SOP dissects the many facets of this extraordinary operation.

The estate covers 28,000 acres: 8,000 for fish farming, 9,000 for farming crops and rice, and 11,000 are left untouched. Much of the area that is now fish farming ponds used to be dry land, a result of silting from nearby rivers and human activities. The areas were intentionally flooded with rich, high quality waters that serve as the basis of a thriving ecosystem. The ponds actually have the ability to ‘clean’ water that enters the system of its excessive nutrients (nitrogen and phosphorous). The wetland plants and algae soak up extra nutrients leaving the water in better balance to return to the nearby river.

Veta la Palma is home to bunch of marine and estuarine species such as sea bass, eel, sole, shrimp, and even black sea anchovy. Allowing the fish to grow in near natural conditions is called extensive fish farming; a stark contrast to the intensive farms that pack in as many fish as possible. Also within the estate is a state-of-the-art nursery and hatchery facility. Eventually, they will be raising enough fish to cover the farm’s needs and to sell to other farms.

One of the most fascinating aspects of the Veta la Palma estate is its key role as a migratory bird stopover. For 250 different species, migrating from Africa to Europe and back, the ponds serve as a resting spot and feeding ground. Estate staffers estimate the birds consume about 20% of the fish in the system. Bad for business? Nope, this is indicative of success. They see it as positive sign that the ecosystem is functioning at a high level.

So where can we buy these unique fish? Browne Trading Company in Maine just announced it is the exclusive U.S. importer of Veta la Palma products. Stop by their retail store on the Portland waterfront, make a request through their website, or visit some of the finest seafood restaurants in the country. Browne has been supplying ultra-fresh seafood to top chefs such as Eric Ripert and Daniel Boulud for the past 15 years.

Admittedly, the Veta la Palma operation is an extreme example of fish farming in a polyculture system. Not all environments can support such productive systems. But if aquaculture firms even come close to achieving Veta la Palma’s high standards, everyone wins.

Polyculture: The New Aquaculture?

Posted on | August 8, 2010 | 1 Comment

Polyculture is a sustainable and more productive way to farm-raise products from the sea. So why isn’t every aquaculture operation in the world doing it? SOP profiles this ancient technique and speaks to its potential for our future.

More than 1,000 years ago during the Tang Dynasty, Chinese fish farmers introduced the practice of polyculture. They stocked ponds with different species of carp and grew phytoplankton and algae by adding agriculture by-products. Ultimately they got higher productivity from the whole system with less waste.

Today, researchers and aquaculture companies are trying to build larger scale polyculture systems that are functional and profitable. Leading the charge in this field is Dr. Thierry Chopin at the University of New Brunswick. His research has led to a successful polyculture of salmon, mussels, and kelp (seaweed) in a system he calls Integrated Multi-Trophic Aquaculture. Despite the overly-technical and non-sexy name, his creation is catching on.

Cooke Aquaculture, with its headquarters in New Brunswick, raises about 115 million pounds of salmon through its operations in Atlantic Canada, Maine, and Chile. SOP has commented on good and bad farm-raised salmon in Part 2 and Part 3 of its series on aquaculture. Cooke tends to be one of the more innovative and sustainable-minded aquaculture companies out there.

Cooke has adopted Dr. Chopin’s system in about 15 of its nearly 100 salmon farms around New Brunswick, and it wants to expand. Salmon excrete organics and nutrients. Mussels feed on the organics. The kelp take up the inorganic nutrients. Dr. Chopin’s research shows a 50% increase in growth rate of kelp and mussels raised in this system. And the salmon waste that can foul nearby waters is greatly reduced.

Dr. Chopin’s lab continues to receive various grants to further advance polyculture on an industrial scale. The latest….he is working to introduce sea cucumbers and urchins into his salmon polyculture system. With hundreds of combinations of species to raise together, it feels like we’ve only scratched the surface of this practice. SOP will keep an eye out for future developments.

Is McDonald’s Filet-o-Fish Sustainable?

Posted on | July 31, 2010 | 3 Comments

It may come as a bit of a surprise, but the answer is closer to ‘yes’ than ‘no’. SOP lays out the facts and explains why big businesses like McDonald’s need to push for sustainability.

McDonald’s learned a valuable lesson in the early 1990s. Massive overfishing of North Atlantic cod, the only fish it used in its Filet-o-Fish sandwiches until the late 1980s, led to widespread fishery shutdowns. The world’s largest fast food chain was forced to spend time and money finding new sources of fish.

To make its fish sandwiches around the world, McDonald’s currently sources five different species of whitefish, including New Zealand hoki, Alaskan pollock, and Eastern Baltic cod. Fisheries for these three species are certified or are undergoing certification by the Marine Stewardship Council. It claims that most of its fish come from sources that are certified as sustainable. However, environmental groups raise legitimate concerns about the sustainability of some fish used by McDonald’s.

One success story lies with the Eastern Baltic cod. In 2007, McDonald’s stopped sourcing the fish because it worried that catch numbers were not being reported accurately. In response to the corporation’s actions, suppliers improved reporting, and this year the restaurant chain is again buying the cod.

More and more big companies like McDonald’s are making the connection that sourcing sustainable seafood is now necessary for long term business planning. They are also beginning to leverage their power to influence positive change in fisheries. SOP expects to unveil more examples of this successful model in the future.

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