Cookbook Review: Fish Without A Doubt

Posted on | February 4, 2010 | No Comments

Be warned….don’t read this book UNLESS you want to be inspired! Chef Rick Moonen and his co-author Roy Finamore deliver a firecracker of a cookbook for anyone who is even thinking of cooking seafood. Fish Without a Doubt: The Cook’s Essential Companion covers everything from the basics of buying fish at the market to demystifying underutilized cooking techniques like butter-basting. SOP is a huge fan of this book because it also gives readers practical information about sustainability.

In one section of the book, Rick thoughtfully profiles species of fish and shellfish with information on flavor, how best to cook them, tips for buying, and their sustainability status. Intentionally missing from the list of species are largely unsustainable choices such as Chilean sea bass and orange roughy. Rick, one of the godfathers of the sustainable seafood movement, shares his favorite resources to help us keep up with the latest information on sustainability.

Throughout the book, Rick reminds us that it is more important to buy the freshest sustainable fish at the market rather than the exact fish called for in a recipe. For each recipe, he gives us acceptable substitutes that will be equally delicious with the same preparation.

It is clear Rick poured his heart and soul into this book. He goes the extra mile to dole out many of the random cooking tricks he has picked up along his 30-plus years of cooking. Recipes are designed specifically to be made at home. Rick created and tested many of the recipes in New York City apartment kitchens.

In the end, the book remains very approachable for beginners, yet rich enough to advance the repertoires of the most seasoned home chefs. SOP strongly recommends you pick up a copy for yourself and one as a gift for your favorite home chef.

SOP Goes Carbon Neutral!

Posted on | January 31, 2010 | No Comments

SOP was asked to participate in an initiative started in Germany called “My blog is carbon neutral”. We are very excited to join the program for two reasons: we are helping the environment; and this give us a perfect opportunity to alert our readers to a potentially disastrous problem called ocean acidification.

Part of a broader program called “Make it Green!”, the initiative raises awareness about carbon emissions resulting from use of the internet. SOP will display the “My blog is carbon neutral” button in the sidebar to the right to help this group achieve its mission. In return a company called kaufDA plants a tree in Plumas National Forest in northern California. Trees absorb carbon dioxide from the atmosphere. Each day this blog is running, we are all using energy to engage with it. This results in carbon being released into the atmosphere (unless you run your computer with wind energy!). Hence, the need to take action (i.e. plant a tree) to neutralize our carbon footprint.

What is the link between carbon in our atmosphere and the seafood on our plates? Our oceans are estimated to absorb over 40 percent of carbon dioxide emitted into the atmosphere by human activities. As more carbon dioxide is released through activities like burning fossil fuels, more is absorbed by the oceans lowering its pH (i.e. making it more acidic).

Why is ocean acidification a problem? Shellfish shells and coral reefs are grown through a process called calcification. As the oceans become more acidic, these calcified structures are more at risk of being dissolved in the water instead being grown. If an oyster does not have a complete sturdy shell, guess what happens…..it dies.

The effects of ocean acidification are now starting to be observed and understood. It is a potentially huge and amorphous issue like climate change that cannot be solved by any one action. However, if we all take steps to lower our carbon footprint, we will lower the chances that our favorite shellfish disappear from the ocean.

Ocean acidification has started to gain national attention in Congress and the media. Check out this 2-minute clip from ABC National News that does a nice job at framing the issue:

Target Takes Aim at Farmed Salmon

Posted on | January 27, 2010 | No Comments

In a monumental move, retail giant Target announced yesterday that it is removing all farm-raised salmon products from its 1,744 stores nationwide. From now on, salmon sold under Target owned brands will be wild-caught and from Alaska. While this is another significant contribution to the sustainable seafood movement, SOP explains how Target can do more with minimal additional effort.

Target consulted with the Monterey Bay Aquarium (MBA) to develop policies to ensure its salmon products come from sustainable sources. Both entities have an opportunity here to educate Target customers about sustainable seafood. SOP feels it is not enough to simply make a change in policy and be done with it. Target has a responsibility to explain to its customers why farmed salmon is a bad choice. MBA, whose mission is “to inspire conservation of the oceans,” should be pushing the retailer to include an education component and helping with its efforts, which can be as simple as posting signs near salmon offerings.

One could easily interpret Target’s latest move as promoting the blanket message that farmed salmon is bad. However, it is not that black and white. In fact, according to MBA’s Seafood Watch program, farmed salmon is actually a “best choice” when it comes from U.S. producers that raise fish in tank systems. In a time when American businesses need good press, it is important for consumers to know we can support domestic producers with a clear conscience. Many of the larger salmon farming operations in Norway, Chile, and Canada are bad for the environment because they introduce excessive pollution, chemicals, and parasites into ocean and coastal waters. Another real threat from these operations is escapement of non-native farmed fish into the wild, which can seriously harm native populations.

Target’s latest move certainly will not hurt its ranking in seafood sustainability among other grocery stores. However, including a complementary educational program will show that the retailer is truly interested in helping to save the oceans.

Eat More Pest Species (Vol. 2)

Posted on | January 23, 2010 | 2 Comments

Amid headlines dominated by health care reform and U.S. relief efforts in Haiti, a story about Asian carp and its potentially disastrous effects on the Great Lakes has grabbed people’s attention. The President, Supreme Court, and now Congress are involved in figuring out how to deal with this invasive species. Supported by SOP, one win-win scenario that is part of the solution is to eat more Asian carp.

Asian carp, a grouping that includes bighead, black, grass, and silver carps, were introduced into the U.S. in the 1970s to clean fish hatcheries and ponds throughout the South. Since a huge escapement event in the 1990s caused by heavy flooding, these fish have dramatically changed the ecological balance of rivers throughout the heart of this country. Weighing up to 100 pounds and growing up to 4 feet, Asian carp voraciously consume vegetation and plankton in direct competition with commercially-important native fish species.

At stake is the $7 billion per year commercial fishing industry of the Great Lakes. As Asian carp continue their migration up the Mississippi River toward the Great Lakes, many have demanded closing locks on waterways that connect the river to Lake Michigan. At this point neither the Obama Administration nor Supreme Court are willing to mandate that measure. Obama’s chief environmental advisor has called for an Asian carp summit with the Great Lakes’ states to take place as early as February.

While the politicians figure out their response to this problem, we can do our part by eating more Asian carp. Admittedly, it is not the most desirable fish out there (they tend to be on the bony side). But, it is inexpensive and can be prepared in ways that appeal to people across many cultures. The Polish mellow out its somewhat fishy taste by soaking it in milk and onions. The Vietnamese poach carp in coconut milk flavored with lemongrass and chili peppers. And for years, Americans have been smoking, pickling, and deep-frying these abundant invasives.

Although most of America will shun Asian carp from gracing their dinner plates, other countries that do not have that luxury may benefit from access to inexpensive and healthy protein. Let’s hope the politicians use a little creativity in attempting to solve this immensely complex issue. For those of you who want to learn more, check out the video below. If nothing else, you should watch the first forty seconds. You will be blown away at how quickly these fish jump out of the water into the paths of unsuspecting boaters.

Barton Seaver: Visionary of Sustainability (Part 1)

Posted on | January 18, 2010 | No Comments

When Barton Seaver opened the Washington DC seafood restaurant Hook as head chef in 2007, he added sustainability to the menu for personal reasons, not marketing purposes. He had no idea his actions would fuel a media frenzy launching him into the national spotlight. SOP had the privilege of chatting with Barton about how his views of sustainability have evolved since then.

After leaving Hook in 2008, Barton took a break from the kitchen to develop a broader, more complete message about sustainability. From his perspective, it is more about people than fish. Sustainability includes preservation of fishing culture and working waterfronts, thereby strengthening local coastal economies. Another key element is engaging seafood consumers as part of the solution.

Admittedly, Barton did not receive his award of 2009 Chef of the Year from Esquire Magazine because his techniques are better than Thomas Keller’s. The magazine saw a man with a powerful message to project. That message will be further broadcast when Diamond District Seafood Co. opens in 2010 as a restaurant/market combo offering sustainable seafood.

“I’m not going to change the culinary world. But I might use the culinary world to change the seafood consumer world.”
- Barton Seaver

As partner and head chef of Diamond District, Barton is bringing to the Washington DC area what he calls “Retail 2.0″. The sign next to each seafood item sold at the market will display more information than you are used to seeing at a fish counter. Customers can make their decisions based on details such as price, where the product is from, how it was harvested or if it was farm-raised, and other sustainability information.

Engaging people, especially neighbors, in sustainability solutions is a core goal of Diamond District. Customers are offered an informative recipe card with each purchase from the market. The ambition here is to extend the dialogue of sustainable seafood to the home with family and friends.

Situated in a now trendy and expensive area of DC, Diamond District’s block is also surrounded on three sides by government housing. By offering seafood options under $5 per pound, he wants his neighbors from all income brackets to have access to fresh sustainable fish. In an honest act of community service, the restaurant will also accept food stamps as payment.

Barton possesses a dangerous combination of grand ideas and limitless energy. SOP looks forward to tracking his career and its effects on the sustainable seafood movement. Stay tuned for Part 2 of this story where we share Barton’s suggestions for engaging in the movement.

Oprah Labels Sardines A ‘Superfood’

Posted on | January 13, 2010 | 2 Comments

We all know when Oprah speaks, America listens. She recently singled out sardines as an ingredient that we should incorporate into our diet. SOP agrees with Oprah because this little fish that could is sustainable, good for you, and very tasty.

Last month, Oprah announced on her website 25 superfoods we should consider eating if we don’t already. Sardines made the list because they are an extremely healthy food. Three ounces of the fish (not even a full serving) contain more calcium than a glass of milk. They are loaded with omega-3 fatty acids. And, sardines pack less of the bad stuff (like mercury) than most other fish.

Oprah also points out these fish are sustainable. Most of the domestic fishery operates off the west coast of the U.S., where stocks are in good shape. Because they are relatively short-lived, they can replenish themselves quicker than most species of fish. The Monterey Bay Aquarium Seafood Watch program lists sardines as a ‘best choice.’

Seemingly, Chef Rick Moonen would also agree with Oprah. In his cookbook, Fish Without a Doubt: The Cook’s Essential Companion, he declares “sardines are almost the perfect ocean protein for your health.” Chef Moonen strongly supports the sustainable seafood movement and shares a few of his delicious recipes in the book. You are most likely to encounter canned sardines (as opposed to fresh) at your local retailer. SOP urges you to take Chef Moonen’s recommendation and grab some Triscuits, mustard, cornichons, and canned sardines for an exciting snack or appetizer.

Sustainable Seafood Abroad: England

Posted on | January 9, 2010 | No Comments

So far, SOP has taken a mostly U.S.-centric view of sustainable seafood. The movement is also thriving in a handful of other countries around the world. As part of a new series, we will highlight efforts taking place outside of the U.S. Our first stop is across the pond in England.

Some of England’s chefs and seafood suppliers have shown leadership in the sustainable seafood movement. This past fall Food Network star Jamie Oliver (a.k.a. The Naked Chef) committed to serving sustainable seafood in his four restaurant chain Fifteen. French celebrity chef Raymond Blanc has taken the same pledge for his restaurant Le Manoir aux Quat’ Saisons near Oxford.

Both chefs serve seafood products certified as sustainable by the London-based Marine Stewardship Council (MSC). Celebrating its 10th anniversary last year, MSC now boasts nearly 60 fisheries certified through its program and over 2,500 MSC-labeled products on the worldwide market.

Tackling the sustainability issue head on, fresh fish supplier M&J Seafood gets involved with its harvesters and customers to promote environmentally-sound policies and practices. M&J guarantees fair prices for two local fishermen who catch albacore tuna using short lines and lures. Also, the supplier has set up a ‘Scottish Skipper’ scheme where premium quality product with full traceability is offered to restaurants such as the Peach Pub that hold the highest standards for sustainability. Peach Pub and M&J hold wildly successful events that bring together the restaurant’s customers with the supplier’s fishermen to talk fish and sample the bounty.

Coming a long way from ‘fish and chips,’ England continues to push the movement forward. In a sign that the progress will continue, as SOP reported previously, the organizers of the 2012 Olympics in London have committed to seafood sustainability. We look forward to watching out for more exciting stories to come.

Invest in Sustainable Seafood!

Posted on | December 30, 2009 | No Comments

If you have a bunch of spare cash and believe that sustainable seafood has growth potential, call up Sea Change Management and ask about their Sea Change Investment Fund. The only such fund in the United States, Sea Change is a venture fund investing in companies that “help to expand the market for environmentally-preferable seafood by demonstrating that sustainable seafood is good business for the seafood industry and for investors.”

Based out of San Francisco, the Sea Change fund started in 2005 with half its initial capital from the David & Lucile Packard Foundation and half from private investors. The Packard Foundation is among our country’s largest supporters of innovative ocean conservation initiatives.

To date, Sea Change has invested in six companies chosen for their profit potential and prospective environmental benefits. It targets companies in the middle of the seafood supply chain, such as:

• Ecofish, a small New Hampshire company that sells fresh sustainable fish to restaurants and frozen consumer products under the brand name Henry & Lisa’s Natural Seafood.

• Advanced BioNutrition, a Maryland biotech firm that makes an organic algae-based fishmeal product that can replace fish oils in aquaculture feed. (This could reduce dependence on wild fish stocks and help keep harvest of small oily fish at sustainable levels.)

• Wild Planet, a California-based company that sells cans of albacore tuna caught using sustainable techniques. (See SOP’s article on tuna.)

Innovative and environmentally-conscious companies like these will continue to push the sustainable movement forward. SOP believes that the short term profits and long term stability from investing in sustainable seafood will make Sea Change a viable fund for years to come.

Where does your grocery store rank in seafood sustainability?

Posted on | December 16, 2009 | 3 Comments

Major retailers of seafood can have huge effects on the health of fish stocks. Greenpeace took it upon themselves to rank twenty of the largest retailers in North America on how sustainable their seafood products and purchasing policies are. Their report, Carting Away the Oceans, was most recently updated this past summer.

The retailers that received ‘passing’ grades ranged from your average grocery store to more upscale retailers. Target, Safeway, and Ahold (operator of Giant and Stop & Shop) all made a strong showing in the top five for developing sustainable seafood policies. Rounding out the top five, Wegmans and Whole Foods offer sustainable seafood products that are around the same price or below similar non-sustainable products found at other stores. This goes to show that you can shop at a range of grocery stores and pay normal prices to bring home sustainable seafood. The key is to know what you’re buying. Using tools of the trade will help.

SOP was most shocked to see Trader Joe’s ranked seventeenth. TJ’s values organic foods, high quality products, and general well-being. It seems natural that they would effectively promote and sell sustainable seafood. But apparently they have some work to do.

Greenpeace is critical of retailers’ transparency with regard to their policies and products. Hypocritically, Greenpeace does not explain the methodology they used to determine a store’s ranking. However, they provide a ton of other information about sustainable seafood initiatives and policies at your favorite grocery store. Check out the
report.

2012 Olympics Aims for Sustainability

Posted on | December 12, 2009 | 3 Comments

The 2012 Olympic organizers have committed to serving only sustainable seafood during the games. Converging in London for the events, athletes and fans are expected to eat 14 million meals including more than 180,000 pounds of seafood. This week the organizers released their Food Vision, a compilation of goals and standards to achieve sustainability.

All wild-caught seafood served will be demonstrably sustainable according to the FAO* Code of Conduct for Responsible Fisheries. Fish and shellfish certified by the Marine Stewardship Council or on the Marine Conservation Society ‘fish to eat’ list are in. And species on the MCS ‘fish to avoid’ list are out. Farmed fish will also be included on menus but only if they are raised to high standards of welfare and fed only sustainable feed.

The 2012 Olympics organizers are using these games to “inspire…sustainable change” and “contribute to the growing public agenda of healthy living.” Let’s all try to work toward those goals in the meantime.

*Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations (FAO) is the body that sets international standards for agriculture, forestry, and fishing practices.

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Sustainable Ocean Project (SOP) brings you inspiring stories and easy to understand information about a growing sustainable and local seafood movement that we all should be a part of.

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• 2012 Olympics Aims for Sustainability
• Eat More Pest Species (Vol. 1)
• Where does your grocery store rank in seafood sustainability?
• Oprah Labels Sardines A 'Superfood'