Messages from the International Boston Seafood Show

Posted on | March 17, 2010 | No Comments

North America’s largest annual gathering of seafood industry professionals took place over the past three days. SOP was given an opportunity to attend this year’s International Boston Seafood Show. Here, we report on some of the latest news and views on sustainability captured at the Show.

One of the messages that arose early was the difficulty of defining and understanding sustainable seafood. Some seafood processors and producers avoid getting involved in the movement because of the perceived burden to learn and incorporate its principles into their business strategies. Also, a market research firm told us that the general public has not yet grasped what the concept of sustainable seafood means. SOP believes these hurdles will be overcome as more people talk about this issue and as common definitions and goals begin to form. One show participant shared his prediction: just as minimum standards for food safety are expected by consumers, eventually minimum standards for sustainability will a given.

A highlight of the Show was a panel discussion put together by friend of SOP, Jacqueline Church. She continued her mission to make it easier for chefs to learn about sustainable seafood and make the case for putting more of it on their menus. In a meeting of the minds, Jacqueline stacked her panel with visionary Barton Seaver and attracted an conscious audience including man on a mission Casson Trenor.

During the discussion, Barton dropped a new term: restorative seafood. He acknowledges that fisheries cannot become sustainable overnight. But, if they show commitment to improving their practices and building healthier fish stocks, they should be rewarded with purchases from their buyers, processors, and consumers.

Casson introduced Bun Lai of Miya’s Sushi to the panel and audience. Congratulations are due to the chef and New Haven, Connecticut, restaurant for being the first on the east coast of the U.S. to serve and promote sustainable sushi. SOP looks forward to visiting Bun and learning more about his philosophies and sourcing practices.

By reporting on a few of the happenings at this year’s Show, SOP intends to illustrate that the sustainable seafood movement is still growing. As intelligent and passionate people continue pushing the dialogue, they are helping forge solutions that will allow future generations to have the same seafood choices we have now.

Is Farm-Raised Seafood Sustainable or Not? (Part 1)

Posted on | March 9, 2010 | 2 Comments

Last year, seafood raised at aquaculture operations, or farms, reached a major milestone. More seafood eaten on this planet now comes from farms than from the wild. As population grows, this trend will continue, demanding ecologically responsible aquaculture. In Part 1 of this series, SOP boils down attributes that determine a farm’s sustainability.

A broad umbrella under which we can judge a farm’s sustainability is its effect on the surrounding environment. The physical structures used to house the fish or shellfish must not be built in environmentally sensitive areas, such as mangroves. Also, farms need to be designed and maintained to avoid escapement of fish into the wild. The spread of disease and parasites should be prevented, especially beyond the operation’s boundaries. At the same time, the use of antibiotics, growth hormones, and preservatives must be eliminated. [This is as much about keeping these chemicals out of the surrounding ecosystem as it is about keeping them out of our bodies.]

Another key factor to evaluate sustainability of an aquaculture operation is the ratio of pounds of fish it takes produce one pound of farmed fish, also know as the fish in/fish out (FIFO) ratio. It simply makes no sense (from a sustainability point of view) to harvest five pounds of wild fish to feed farmed fish that yield one pound of product. While salmon farms are notorious for high FIFO ratios, improvements are being made. Oysters and some fish such as catfish and tilapia can be grown on a completely or nearly vegetarian diet.

To answer the title of this article…..yes and no, it depends. SOP challenges you to start learning more about the farm-raised seafood you eat. In Part 2 of this series, we will use the attributes mentioned above to compare different types of aquaculture operations.

Wylie Dufresne: A Model for the Future

Posted on | March 3, 2010 | No Comments

Wylie Dufresne, chef and owner of Lower East Side’s WD-50, pushes the culinary world in new directions with precision and confidence. Tapping into knowledge gained from the scientific discipline of molecular gastronomy, he churns out progressive American cuisine using nontraditional tools such as immersion circulators, liquid nitrogen, and Cryovac machines. SOP was delighted to learn that Wylie blends his forward-thinking ideas into his approach for supporting sustainable seafood.

A quick read through WD-50’s menu elicits a few noteworthy observations. First, the recent bad boys of sustainable seafood (e.g., bluefin tuna and Chilean sea bass) are clearly missing. One offering, eel, is most likely not from a sustainable source. But then there are choices like Arctic char, scallops, and Maine shrimp that emerge as sustainable superstars.

While the menu shows a tendency toward seafood sustainability, no mention of this intent can be found anywhere. This struck SOP as odd. We know there is a growing market for sustainable seafood, so why not promote it and tell people about it? SOP asked Wylie that exact question. He explained that guests visiting a restaurant of WD-50’s caliber should feel confident that its menu items come from sustainable sources. We believe this is a model for the future.

Imagine the day when you can step into any restaurant and know (or easily find out) whether it serves sustainable seafood or not. It’s like walking into your favorite restaurant and knowing you will get a certain quality food. A clear commitment to sustainability (or lack thereof) will be another distinguishable feature of all restaurants that diners contemplate when deciding where to spend their hard earned dollars.

SOP commends Wylie for his understated approach to sustainable seafood. However, because the movement is still in its formative stages, we believe restaurants and their guests should continue talking openly about seafood sustainability. Restaurants must instill trust in their customers by making open commitments to not sell ‘red list’ species. And restaurant goers need to hold restaurants accountable by asking questions about where their fish is from and how it was harvested or farm-raised.

SOP encourages you to seek out WD-50 next time you are looking for a fine dining experience in Manhattan. The truly unique and delicious dishes with sustainability undertones are worth the trip. And don’t forget to quiz Wylie to test his sustainable seafood knowledge!

Barton Seaver: Visionary of Sustainability (Part 2)

Posted on | February 22, 2010 | 2 Comments

Tracking Barton’s career as a chef and restaurateur in Part 1 of this story helped us understand how his views of sustainability have evolved to the present. During SOP’s interview with head chef and owner of Blue Ridge Restaurant in DC, he dropped a couple insights into how we as consumers can engage in the sustainable seafood movement.

Barton confirms that sustainability as a concept is quite well progressed. But, he concedes, as a society we do not know what our goal is for sustainability: “we haven’t figured out what the deliverable is yet.” The tipping point where sustainable seafood becomes second nature in our society and business world “will not be reached until there is a concise message.”

In working toward the tipping point and the elusive goal of sustainability, Barton says we need to change what makes us unsustainable. His suggestion is simple: eat less protein and more vegetables. If everyone changed the portion size of their seafood, significant pressure would be taken off our fish stocks. For example, SOP pleads for you to never participate in another all-you-can-eat shrimp event.

Barton sees the sustainability battle being won at Wal-Mart and other big retailers around the world. Look around the seafood section every so often when you visit the grocery store. If you have not already, you will start to see signs that sustainable seafood is creeping its way into mainstream society.

SOP hopes we all become more conscious of how our behavior affects the health of our oceans and fish. Soon enough as a society we will reach that tipping point, and the end goal of sustainability will be clear.

Jacqueline Church: Inspiring Change

Posted on | February 15, 2010 | No Comments

Sustaining a career as a freelance writer and independent businessperson is no easy feat. It is even harder when one of the fields you work in is still in its formative stages. As one of the leaders in the sustainable seafood field, Jacqueline Church channels much of her energy and passion into educating others and raising awareness. SOP caught up with Jacqueline in Boston to learn more about her insights into the movement and the cool projects she heads up.

Somehow Jacqueline fits sustainable seafood into a list of passions that includes gourmet foods, photography, and Heritage pigs. For the past three years she has been spreading enthusiasm for sustainable seafood through her online blog events called Teach a Man to Fish. The premise is simple (i.e., pick out your favorite recipe for preparing sustainable seafood, take a photo of the dish, and email them to her) but the collective impact is profound. Her events are far-reaching with participants from across the globe and from many different professions. Sustainable seafood heavy hitter chefs Rick Moonen and Barton Seaver sent in their recipes. Also, you may recall SOP contributed its favorite, Maine Shrimp Fra Diavolo. We encourage you to find a recipe that looks good. And, when you go to purchase the fish, talk to your fishmonger about the sustainable seafood choice you are about to make.

Jacqueline shared with SOP a couple interesting perceptions. When asked in what stage is the sustainable seafood movement, she replied, “Toddler…we’re up on our feet.” To illustrate her point, Jacqueline cites how our understanding of aquaculture has evolved. At first, everyone thought it was a bad thing because it caused spreading of pollution, disease, and habitat destruction. But, the tides have turned and many aquaculture operations can legitimately call themselves sustainable. SOP will dive deeper into sustainable aquaculture in future articles.

Another insight Jacqueline dropped for us was, much like the idea behind her blog event, simple yet profound. For those people considering joining the sustainable seafood movement, she offers, “You don’t have to go all or nothing.” She encourages chefs and consumers to take steps as a way to become engaged. Tell people what you are doing and why you are doing it, and they will appreciate it.

“This sustainable seafood thing won’t let go of me.”
~Jacqueline Church

And SOP hopes she doesn’t let go either. Fortunately, Jacqueline continues to lead the charge. She is hosting a “Teach a Chef to Fish” panel at the International Boston Seafood Show on March 16th to talk about how to source sustainable seafood and make it a highlight of menus. This panel discussion follows up on the “Teach a Chef to Fish” workshop series she held in various cities this past year.

SOP looks forward to keeping in touch with Jacqueline and reporting back on her next moves.

Carolina Seafood: Keeping it Fresh

Posted on | February 10, 2010 | 2 Comments

Duke University students and Carteret Catch, a fish industry marketing and education group in Carteret County, are teaming up to bring fresh North Carolina seafood to local markets. The collaboration is one of the latest community supported fisheries (CSF) programs to pop up in the United States. The goals are clear: increase access to locally harvested seafood, strengthen the local economy, and keep people talking about sustainability and local foods.

Initiated by students at Duke, the project called Walking Fish was launched this past Fall as a North Carolina’s first pilot CSF program. The seafood products offered through the program were chosen because the fisheries from which they came are managed for the long term and use gears that minimize negative effects on the ecosystem. Walking Fish partners are planning to use the program as a platform to demonstrate a growing demand for sustainable seafood. If they are successful, hopefully the fishing industry, regulators, and the local communities will be encouraged to work together to adopt policies and practices that further promote ecological sustainability.

Carteret Catch, a joint venture started in 2005 by fishermen and local restaurants, is looking to at sustainability from a different (but not inconsistent) angle. Its goal is to maintain fishing as a viable livelihood and preserve a culture that has existed along the Carolina coast for nearly four centuries. The Carteret Catch brand of seafood ensures consumers they are getting fresh seafood directly from local fishermen.

If you are fortunate enough to live within the range of Walking Fish or any other CSF, SOP encourages you to check it out. Ask questions about how healthy the populations of fish are and what gear was used to harvest the fish. And, enjoy fresh seafood that will be available reliably season after season, year after year.

Also, see SOP’s article on Maine’s first CSF.

Cookbook Review: Fish Without A Doubt

Posted on | February 4, 2010 | No Comments

Be warned….don’t read this book UNLESS you want to be inspired! Chef Rick Moonen and his co-author Roy Finamore deliver a firecracker of a cookbook for anyone who is even thinking of cooking seafood. Fish Without a Doubt: The Cook’s Essential Companion covers everything from the basics of buying fish at the market to demystifying underutilized cooking techniques like butter-basting. SOP is a huge fan of this book because it also gives readers practical information about sustainability.

In one section of the book, Rick thoughtfully profiles species of fish and shellfish with information on flavor, how best to cook them, tips for buying, and their sustainability status. Intentionally missing from the list of species are largely unsustainable choices such as Chilean sea bass and orange roughy. Rick, one of the godfathers of the sustainable seafood movement, shares his favorite resources to help us keep up with the latest information on sustainability.

Throughout the book, Rick reminds us that it is more important to buy the freshest sustainable fish at the market rather than the exact fish called for in a recipe. For each recipe, he gives us acceptable substitutes that will be equally delicious with the same preparation.

It is clear Rick poured his heart and soul into this book. He goes the extra mile to dole out many of the random cooking tricks he has picked up along his 30-plus years of cooking. Recipes are designed specifically to be made at home. Rick created and tested many of the recipes in New York City apartment kitchens.

In the end, the book remains very approachable for beginners, yet rich enough to advance the repertoires of the most seasoned home chefs. SOP strongly recommends you pick up a copy for yourself and one as a gift for your favorite home chef.

SOP Goes Carbon Neutral!

Posted on | January 31, 2010 | No Comments

SOP was asked to participate in an initiative started in Germany called “My blog is carbon neutral”. We are very excited to join the program for two reasons: we are helping the environment; and this give us a perfect opportunity to alert our readers to a potentially disastrous problem called ocean acidification.

Part of a broader program called “Make it Green!”, the initiative raises awareness about carbon emissions resulting from use of the internet. SOP will display the “My blog is carbon neutral” button in the sidebar to the right to help this group achieve its mission. In return a company called kaufDA plants a tree in Plumas National Forest in northern California. Trees absorb carbon dioxide from the atmosphere. Each day this blog is running, we are all using energy to engage with it. This results in carbon being released into the atmosphere (unless you run your computer with wind energy!). Hence, the need to take action (i.e. plant a tree) to neutralize our carbon footprint.

What is the link between carbon in our atmosphere and the seafood on our plates? Our oceans are estimated to absorb over 40 percent of carbon dioxide emitted into the atmosphere by human activities. As more carbon dioxide is released through activities like burning fossil fuels, more is absorbed by the oceans lowering its pH (i.e. making it more acidic).

Why is ocean acidification a problem? Shellfish shells and coral reefs are grown through a process called calcification. As the oceans become more acidic, these calcified structures are more at risk of being dissolved in the water instead being grown. If an oyster does not have a complete sturdy shell, guess what happens…..it dies.

The effects of ocean acidification are now starting to be observed and understood. It is a potentially huge and amorphous issue like climate change that cannot be solved by any one action. However, if we all take steps to lower our carbon footprint, we will lower the chances that our favorite shellfish disappear from the ocean.

Ocean acidification has started to gain national attention in Congress and the media. Check out this 2-minute clip from ABC National News that does a nice job at framing the issue:

Target Takes Aim at Farmed Salmon

Posted on | January 27, 2010 | No Comments

In a monumental move, retail giant Target announced yesterday that it is removing all farm-raised salmon products from its 1,744 stores nationwide. From now on, salmon sold under Target owned brands will be wild-caught and from Alaska. While this is another significant contribution to the sustainable seafood movement, SOP explains how Target can do more with minimal additional effort.

Target consulted with the Monterey Bay Aquarium (MBA) to develop policies to ensure its salmon products come from sustainable sources. Both entities have an opportunity here to educate Target customers about sustainable seafood. SOP feels it is not enough to simply make a change in policy and be done with it. Target has a responsibility to explain to its customers why farmed salmon is a bad choice. MBA, whose mission is “to inspire conservation of the oceans,” should be pushing the retailer to include an education component and helping with its efforts, which can be as simple as posting signs near salmon offerings.

One could easily interpret Target’s latest move as promoting the blanket message that farmed salmon is bad. However, it is not that black and white. In fact, according to MBA’s Seafood Watch program, farmed salmon is actually a “best choice” when it comes from U.S. producers that raise fish in tank systems. In a time when American businesses need good press, it is important for consumers to know we can support domestic producers with a clear conscience. Many of the larger salmon farming operations in Norway, Chile, and Canada are bad for the environment because they introduce excessive pollution, chemicals, and parasites into ocean and coastal waters. Another real threat from these operations is escapement of non-native farmed fish into the wild, which can seriously harm native populations.

Target’s latest move certainly will not hurt its ranking in seafood sustainability among other grocery stores. However, including a complementary educational program will show that the retailer is truly interested in helping to save the oceans.

Eat More Pest Species (Vol. 2)

Posted on | January 23, 2010 | 2 Comments

Amid headlines dominated by health care reform and U.S. relief efforts in Haiti, a story about Asian carp and its potentially disastrous effects on the Great Lakes has grabbed people’s attention. The President, Supreme Court, and now Congress are involved in figuring out how to deal with this invasive species. Supported by SOP, one win-win scenario that is part of the solution is to eat more Asian carp.

Asian carp, a grouping that includes bighead, black, grass, and silver carps, were introduced into the U.S. in the 1970s to clean fish hatcheries and ponds throughout the South. Since a huge escapement event in the 1990s caused by heavy flooding, these fish have dramatically changed the ecological balance of rivers throughout the heart of this country. Weighing up to 100 pounds and growing up to 4 feet, Asian carp voraciously consume vegetation and plankton in direct competition with commercially-important native fish species.

At stake is the $7 billion per year commercial fishing industry of the Great Lakes. As Asian carp continue their migration up the Mississippi River toward the Great Lakes, many have demanded closing locks on waterways that connect the river to Lake Michigan. At this point neither the Obama Administration nor Supreme Court are willing to mandate that measure. Obama’s chief environmental advisor has called for an Asian carp summit with the Great Lakes’ states to take place as early as February.

While the politicians figure out their response to this problem, we can do our part by eating more Asian carp. Admittedly, it is not the most desirable fish out there (they tend to be on the bony side). But, it is inexpensive and can be prepared in ways that appeal to people across many cultures. The Polish mellow out its somewhat fishy taste by soaking it in milk and onions. The Vietnamese poach carp in coconut milk flavored with lemongrass and chili peppers. And for years, Americans have been smoking, pickling, and deep-frying these abundant invasives.

Although most of America will shun Asian carp from gracing their dinner plates, other countries that do not have that luxury may benefit from access to inexpensive and healthy protein. Let’s hope the politicians use a little creativity in attempting to solve this immensely complex issue. For those of you who want to learn more, check out the video below. If nothing else, you should watch the first forty seconds. You will be blown away at how quickly these fish jump out of the water into the paths of unsuspecting boaters.

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Sustainable Ocean Project (SOP) brings you inspiring stories and easy to understand information about a growing sustainable and local seafood movement that we all should be a part of.

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