Is McDonald’s Filet-o-Fish Sustainable?

Posted on | July 31, 2010 | No Comments

It may come as a bit of a surprise, but the answer is closer to ‘yes’ than ‘no’. SOP lays out the facts and explains why big businesses like McDonald’s need to push for sustainability.

McDonald’s learned a valuable lesson in the early 1990s. Massive overfishing of North Atlantic cod, the only fish it used in its Filet-o-Fish sandwiches until the late 1980s, led to widespread fishery shutdowns. The world’s largest fast food chain was forced to spend time and money finding new sources of fish.

To make its fish sandwiches around the world, McDonald’s currently sources five different species of whitefish, including New Zealand hoki, Alaskan pollock, and Eastern Baltic cod. Fisheries for these three species are certified or are undergoing certification by the Marine Stewardship Council. It claims that most of its fish come from sources that are certified as sustainable. However, environmental groups raise legitimate concerns about the sustainability of some fish used by McDonald’s.

One success story lies with the Eastern Baltic cod. In 2007, McDonald’s stopped sourcing the fish because it worried that catch numbers were not being reported accurately. In response to the corporation’s actions, suppliers improved reporting, and this year the restaurant chain is again buying the cod.

More and more big companies like McDonald’s are making the connection that sourcing sustainable seafood is now necessary for long term business planning. They are also beginning to leverage their power to influence positive change in fisheries. SOP expects to unveil more examples of this successful model in the future.

Sustainable Seafood to Your iPhone

Posted on | July 20, 2010 | 2 Comments

Now is a good time to reach out to all you iPhone users. Steve Jobs once again rocked the tech world a few weeks ago with the release of Apple’s iPhone 4. And another useful new sustainable seafood app was launched earlier this month. SOP follows up on its Tools of the Trade post to focus on iPhone applications.

The Blue Ocean Institute recently made its FishPhone application available for free through the iTunes store website. Once downloaded to your iPhone, the app provides seafood sustainability rankings wherever you are. Plus it gives you wine pairings and recipes for your fish of choice. The app was developed in partnership with a Brancott Vineyards.

SOP previously reported on the Monterey Bay Aquarium iPhone app. It too is free and available at the iTunes store. The Aquarium’s app offers a few cool and unique features. It loads up different guides specific to what region of the country you are in. And there is a sushi guide that gives you the Japanese name of fish in addition to its common name.

Yet another iPhone app dedicated to sustainable seafood is Safe Seafood. This one costs a whopping $0.99 through iTunes. It claims to draw on multiple sources of seafood rankings and data from environmental groups, government, and academia. Safe Seafood also gives you a link to each species Wikipedia page, so you can shell out random fish facts to impress your friends. To make you feel even more warm and fuzzy when downloading this app, 10% of the proceeds are donated to the Environmental Defense Fund.

As usual, SOP must throw out its disclaimer…..none of these tools is THE authority on sustainable seafood. They all have strengths and limitations. Give one or all a test ride. Those of us with don’t roll with the iPhone would love to hear about your experiences with them.

Eat More Pest Species (Vol. 4)

Posted on | July 11, 2010 | No Comments

What fish is striped like a tiger, has poisonous spines, and could wreak havoc in the Atlantic Ocean off the southeastern United States? If you answered ‘lionfish’ you are correct. And supposedly, this invasive species tastes delicious. Below, SOP chronicles the story of the lionfish and shares a recipe.

Lionfish native habitat is rocky crevices and reefs in the Pacific and Indian Oceans. So, how did get to the Atlantic Ocean? Experts identify one major event as the leading culprit. In 1992, Hurricane Andrew smashed a waterfront tank containing six lionfish and whisked them away from Miami to the ocean. In addition, it is likely over time home aquarists have compounded the effects of the initial breach by releasing these creatures into the wild because they got too big or killed all their other fish. Don’t release unwanted pets into the wild!!

Lionfish have no known predators in the Atlantic Ocean. They can reproduce very quickly. And they eat lots of young reef fish. This is a problem because as adults these reef fish are hugely important to the commercial and recreational fishing industries. Oh, another thing, lionfish hide in crevices and are extremely difficult to catch. Thus far, the most effective method of capture is spearfishing by SCUBA divers. Lionfish spearfishing tournaments have popped up in the Caribbean and southeastern states putting a bounty on this pest species.

In case you’ve been wondering, “Is SOP trying to convince me to eat a poisonous fish to help the environment?” The answer is “yes.” But, before you send us hate mail, hear this…..very shortly after the fish is killed, its poisonous spines lose their effect. The fish can be handled and eaten safely. The Washington Post recently posted a recipe modified from a dish Barton Seaver served at the Smithsonian Sustainable Seafood event.

Lionfish is starting to pop up on menus around the county. SOP recommends you try eating the pest species, if for no other reason than impressing your friends by eating a poisonous fish.

Red Lobster’s Parent Company Launches Sustainability Website

Posted on | July 6, 2010 | No Comments

Darden Restaurants, which operates brands such as Olive Garden, Bahama Breeze, LongHorn Steakhouse, and Red Lobster, is now sharing its sustainability philosophy and strategies through a slick new website. As one of the world’s largest seafood buyers, Darden has much to lose if its supplies disappear. SOP breaks down the company’s approach to sustainability.

Darden lays it all out in a document called Our Approach to Seafood Sustainability. For the most part, the document is light on details of Darden’s goals and future commitments. The first few pages simply show off how much the restaurant conglomerate knows about sustainable seafood. Darden acknowledges that it still has work to do but does not share specific milestones for improvement.

On the other hand, reading through the document, one can’t help but appreciate several of Darden’s efforts to date. It does not serve in its restaurants overfished species such Chilean sea bass, orange roughy or any type of shark. For the past five years, Darden has partnered with the New England Aquarium to better understand current fisheries science and seek seafood purchasing advice. The company also funds lobster conservation and research projects through the Darden Environmental Trust.

SOP commends Darden for being a leader in seeking sustainable solutions to increased seafood demand. However, Red Lobster’s all-you-can-eat shrimp, crab, and lobster offerings are perverted promotions that openly contradict the company’s efforts to work toward sustainability. One important action that contributes to the sustainable seafood movement is limiting portion sizes. If you visit Red Lobster, we encourage you to steer clear of the seafood gorge-fests.

“Take Marlin Off the Menu” Campaign

Posted on | June 30, 2010 | No Comments

Sustainable Ocean Project has made the point that chefs, restaurants, retailers, purveyors, and consumers can significantly affect the health of our oceans with the decisions they make. Starting in 2008, three organizations launched a public action campaign to promote the preservation of billfish, such as marlin. SOP supports proper protection and management of these majestic fish, but we question the fairness of the campaign goal.

Take Marlin Off the Menu intends “through education and political advocacy, to end the commercial harvest, sale and importation of marlin, sailfish and spearfish in the United States.” Overharvesting of these long-lived species have left many of their populations in bad shape. A slew of restaurants (including all of Wolfgang Puck’s) and a few retailers (e.g., Wegmans) have signed on to the campaign and agreed to not sell billfish.

You may remember the Give Swordfish a Break campaign that started in the late 1990s. It was wildly successful, motivating high profile chefs, cruise lines, and even President Clinton to take action. Today, swordfish stocks around the U.S. and Canada are for the most part back to healthy levels. In fact, this month harpoon-caught swordfish from Canada became the world’s first swordfish fishery to be certified as sustainable through the Marine Stewardship Council.

Now, on to the issue of fairness. The three organizations working together in the billfish campaign are the International Game Fish Association,
National Coalition for Marine Conservation, and The Billfish Foundation. Remember, the goal of the campaign is “to end the commercial harvest.” In a classic fisheries case of ‘us versus them’ the recreational and conservation interests single out the commercial industry as the billfish assassins. However, one glimpse at the image to the right shows that recreational fishermen also have a hand in the mortality.

The question arises: are the organizations running Take Marlin Off the Menu more concerned about the welfare of these amazing creatures or about making sure only recreational fishermen have access to these fish? In support of the former, the groups promote catch and release, helping to conserve the fish. However, SOP found no plea to end the killing of billfish by recreational fishermen. Are the campaign goals fair?

SOP applauds the campaign organizers for raising the profile of this under-appreciated issue. However, we urge them to add to the campaign a call to end mortality from recreational harvest. If stocks are in such bad shape, no one should be allowed to kill the fish.

Gulf Oil Spill Effects on Sustainability

Posted on | June 28, 2010 | No Comments

The United States’ worst oil spill in history will undoubtedly have far-reaching effects, geographically and over time. The Gulf of Mexico ecosystem has been disrupted and will face fundamental changes for the foreseeable future. SOP breaks down the spill’s effects on the sustainability of domestic fisheries.

The Deepwater Horizon spill impacts fisheries directly through lethal and sub-lethal effects of the oil on fish and shellfish in the Gulf of Mexico. At this point, areas that have been closed to fishing, mostly as a precaution, are home to much of the Gulf’s shrimp and oyster populations. These species filter water to catch food. If there is oil in the water, it will likely end up in these seafood species and possibly killing off portions of the populations.

The Gulf of Mexico is also an important spawning ground for many finfish species. Most notably, the bluefin tuna, whose population numbers are already dangerously low, commonly spawn in areas of the Gulf covered by the spill. Eggs or larvae that encounter oil will likely die. Because species like tuna and marlin are a long-lived, effects of the oil spill might not be seen for many years. This recent disaster reinforces the need to properly protect these majestic species and manage harvest based on science. Senator Shelby (AL) has already called upon Commerce Secretary Locke to determine how NOAA will conduct stock assessments in the absence of harvest data.

The Gulf of Mexico oil spill also affects fisheries outside of the region. Fishing pressure is being displaced to other areas. Nearly 70% of oysters consumed in the U.S. come from the Gulf of Mexico. Red Lobster will be taking Gulf oysters off its menus once its current supply runs out. However, many restaurants will keep oysters on their menu and look for oysters from regions like the Chesapeake Bay and Cape Cod. Farmed oysters in these areas are on most ‘green’ sustainability lists. But increased harvest pressure could jeopardize this ranking. Similarly, Gulf of Mexico shrimp are on most ‘OK to eat’ sustainability lists. Restaurants seeking ‘green’ shrimp may have to obtain their supply from elsewhere.

The Deepwater Horizon oil spill is an environmental disaster of epic proportions. Its effects on marine species and the lives of Gulf residents are nothing short of tragic. SOP encourages you to continue eating the sustainable Gulf seafood options even if you have to pay a little more.

Famed Fish Market Gives Sustainability a Toss

Posted on | June 5, 2010 | No Comments

Seattle’s Pike Place Fish Market is going to be famous for something other than throwing fish around. The retailer has committed to be 100 percent sustainable. This is no small task for owner John Yokoyama who sells over 100 types of seafood. SOP explains challenges that lie ahead and offers a suggestion for moving forward.

The trigger that pushed Yokoyama to dive into the sustainable seafood realm: a series of nastygrams. Sport fishermen, who target the coveted steelhead trout, sent him angry emails demanding he stop selling the fish. More into peace than war, Yokoyama took his customers’ message to heart and eliminated steelhead from the market shelves. Reportedly, Chilean sea bass, monkfish, and Russian king crab are next on the chopping block.

The first major challenge for the fish market is defining sustainable. Within a movement that sometimes offers conflicting information and guidance, all eyes will be on Yokoyama and his staff to see how they deem certain species worthy of their new standard. The next difficulty will be ensuring traceability of product from sustainable sources. The last test will be whether the business can thrive under the new regime. Undoubtedly, many of Yokoyama’s customers will no longer find their favorite seafood available. And, as supply and demand sets market prices, many sustainable seafood prices will be higher than their unsustainable counterparts. Are you willing to pay the going rate of $40/pound for Copper River salmon?

One could argue that Pike Place Fish Market should blaze its own path and define sustainability on its own terms. However, SOP sees value in developing partnerships with like-minded groups. About 18 months ago, SOP staff visited the market and launched questions about sustainability at one of the fishmongers. He was familiar with some of the issues but had never heard of the Marine Stewardship Council (MSC), the world’s leading certification and ecolabel program for sustainable seafood. MSC’s regional office for all of the Americas is less than three miles north of the market. A partnership between the groups would give Yokoyama access to fully traceable and sustainable product. MSC gets a local ally to help promote its global program.

Next time you are in Seattle, stop by the Pike Place Fish Market and tell them how much you appreciate their commitment to sustainability. And, don’t forget to purchase delicious (and guilt-free) seafood. [Tip: Make sure your fillets aren't from the tossed fish!]

Maersk’s Sustainable Seafood Saga

Posted on | May 31, 2010 | 1 Comment

The world’s largest container-shipping company, Maersk, made headlines throughout the seafood business press this past week. In a case of good intentions, misunderstandings, and clarifications, the New Zealand government, Greenpeace, and John Sackton of SeafoodNews.com all played a role. SOP clears up the story and teases out a couple positive messages.

On May 27th, Greenpeace New Zealand announced that Maersk “refuses to transport unsustainable seafood including New Zealand species.” Maersk never issued its own press release on this commitment but a company executive was quoted in Greenpeace’s release saying they “recognize the global concerns over the overfishing of toothfish species and support efforts to curb this trade.” Later that day, John Sackton reported, “Greenpeace gets some major shippers to refuse to transport toothfish, orange roughy.” For a company that transports 20% of the world’s seafood cargo, this could have major implications.

The New Zealand government, who oversees a fishery management system recognized as among the most effective, took issue with Maersk’s alleged refusal to ship species that the country manages sustainably. While much of the world’s toothfish (commonly sold as Chilean sea bass) and orange roughy catch is unsustainable, New Zealand argues its catch has been reduced to sustainable levels. SOP believes New Zealand is on the right track. But for species that live over forty years, it is too early to tell if these stocks have been rebuilt to levels where current harvest rates are sustainable.

On May 28th, Maersk issued a statement to clarify its intentions and offer New Zealand peace of mind. The company is “reviewing its policy with regard to the future acceptance of seafood shipments,” and their “current acceptance policy remains in place.”

Let’s quickly recap the two-day media mishap. First, Greenpeace New Zealand overstated Maersk’s plans to ship sustainable seafood. Making matters worse, John Sackton incorrectly reported that Greenpeace actually convinced the company to make this commitment. New Zealand rightfully stood up for itself and its fishing industry. This led Maersk to take a step back and reevaluate its jump into the sustainable seafood movement.

A couple important messages are embedded in this story. One of the world’s most important players in the global seafood industry recognizes the importance of sustainably managed fisheries. A shipping company engaging in the movement illustrates how far the message is spreading. Undoubtedly, Maersk will learn from its recent dip into sustainable seafood. Its policies will need to account for many complexities including different standards of sustainability and reliable traceability from sustainable sources.

Sustainable Seafood Recipe: Squid

Posted on | May 26, 2010 | 2 Comments

Squid shows up on more menus than many other seafood items. Most commonly prepared as fried calamari, it is one of the unsung heroes of sustainability. Yet, squid rarely gets put on the pedestal like wild-caught Alaskan salmon and farm-raised oysters. SOP shares with you a delicious, unique, and quick recipe in the hopes that it gives squid a higher profile.

Before we get to the recipe, let’s discuss why squid is considered sustainable seafood. For starters, all populations around the world are in good shape. Squid mature quickly and can withstand heavy harvest due to their fast reproduction time. Gear used to catch this cephalopod causes little habitat damage and encounters moderate levels of other species as bycatch. Monterey Bay Aquarium, Blue Ocean Institute, and Environmental Defense Fund give the various species of squid around the world positive marks.

Another great feature of squid is its cost. You should be able to find fresh or frozen squid for about $8 per pound. Total cost of this recipe comes out to about $3 per person. Slightly modified from Chef Anne Burrell’s recipe, SOP presents Squid ‘Noodles’ with Kalamata Olives and Arugula.

“Savoring Sustainable Seafood” Event

Posted on | May 19, 2010 | No Comments

Hosted by the Smithsonian’s National Museum of Natural History, Savoring Sustainable Seafood takes place June 11th and 12th in Washington DC. This high profile event should not to be missed. Unfortunately, however, SOP staff will be out of town. We will rely on any readers who attend to fill us in on the details.

The evening receptions on June 11th are expected to be star-studded events filled with lively discussion and superior eats. Former Top Chef cheftestants Carla Hall, Bryan Voltaggio, and Mike Isabella will be on hand. Also in attendance will be a smattering of the best local chefs, including Michel Richard, Nora Pouillon, and Roberto Donna. And, what sustainable seafood event would be complete without two of the movement’s strongest advocates…Rick Moonen and Barton Seaver.

The Saturday session starts in the morning with a breakfast buffet including smoked sustainable seafood. A series of panel discussions will be kicked off by the Obama administration’s top fisheries manager Eric Schwaab. Panel topics include the successes and challenges in achieving sustainable seafood, the future of aquaculture, and sustainability at home and in restaurants.

For more information on admission fees, times, and all the delicious foods you can eat, check out the Savoring Sustainable Seafood brochure. If you attend, please share your experiences with SOP and make us jealous.

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Sustainable Ocean Project (SOP) brings you inspiring stories and easy to understand information about a growing sustainable and local seafood movement that we all should be a part of.

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