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Famed Fish Market Gives Sustainability a Toss

Posted on | June 5, 2010 | No Comments

Seattle’s Pike Place Fish Market is going to be famous for something other than throwing fish around. The retailer has committed to be 100 percent sustainable. This is no small task for owner John Yokoyama who sells over 100 types of seafood. SOP explains challenges that lie ahead and offers a suggestion for moving forward.

Pike Place Fish Market

The trigger that pushed Yokoyama to dive into the sustainable seafood realm: a series of nastygrams. Sport fishermen, who target the coveted steelhead trout, sent him angry emails demanding he stop selling the fish. More into peace than war, Yokoyama took his customers’ message to heart and eliminated steelhead from the market shelves. Reportedly, Chilean sea bass, monkfish, and Russian king crab are next on the chopping block.

The first major challenge for the fish market is defining sustainable. Within a movement that sometimes offers conflicting information and guidance, all eyes will be on Yokoyama and his staff to see how they deem certain species worthy of their new standard. The next difficulty will be ensuring traceability of product from sustainable sources. The last test will be whether the business can thrive under the new regime. Undoubtedly, many of Yokoyama’s customers will no longer find their favorite seafood available. And, as supply and demand sets market prices, many sustainable seafood prices will be higher than their unsustainable counterparts. Are you willing to pay the going rate of $40/pound for Copper River salmon?

One could argue that Pike Place Fish Market should blaze its own path and define sustainability on its own terms. However, SOP sees value in developing partnerships with like-minded groups. About 18 months ago, SOP staff visited the market and launched questions about sustainability at one of the fishmongers. He was familiar with some of the issues but had never heard of the Marine Stewardship Council (MSC), the world’s leading certification and ecolabel program for sustainable seafood. MSC’s regional office for all of the Americas is less than three miles north of the market. A partnership between the groups would give Yokoyama access to fully traceable and sustainable product. MSC gets a local ally to help promote its global program.

Next time you are in Seattle, stop by the Pike Place Fish Market and tell them how much you appreciate their commitment to sustainability. And, don’t forget to purchase delicious (and guilt-free) seafood. [Tip: Make sure your fillets aren't from the tossed fish!]

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